The city of love, poetry, roses and nightingales, these nicknames are associated with the city of Shiraz which hosted two of the greatest Iranian poets (Saadi and Hafez), both Sufi, in love, drunk, and literary geniuses.

This modern, academic and touristic city is today capital of Fars province in south of Iran with more than a million and a half of inhabitants. Its foundation dates back to the Sassanid era (3th-7th s.). And became a center for theological education, Sufism and poetry in the Islamic era. The king chooses Shiraz as his capital in 18th century and takes the title of deputy (Vakil) when he reaches the throne, preferring this more modest designation to that usual word of “king” (Shah). Most of the historic monuments in the city belong to his period, Zand.

Today in the central part of the current city which was once developed by Karim Khan (1750-1779) there are still some vestiges of his time. The most famous one is called the citadel of the deputy (Arg-e Karim Khan) which is a fortified brick palace, in shape of quadrangular. Near to it, the great King built a pavilion in the middle of a beautiful garden. Today, this garden has turned into a museum (Pars museum), where the king or deputy is laid there and you can visit his tomb. The construction of the bazaar, the hammam, and the Deputy Mosque (Vakil mosque), are only part of the improvements made by the peaceful and active governor of the city in 18th century. What Pars museum and Deputy Mosque have in common is the exterior of tiles with floral patterns and hunting scenes painted in a blue, beige, green and pink background, the construction style of the Shiraz school at the time of Zand.

An important pilgrimage site for Shia Muslims, the mausoleum of Shah Cheragh (King of Light), is not far from the historic center of the city. Ahmed ibn Musa, brother of Imam Reza (8th Shi’i imam) died and was buried in Shiraz in 835. According to historians the first tombs and buildings built for his honor date back to the 13th century, but the current building is from the 19th century, after an earthquake at the time almost ruined everything. It is the third largest Shiite mausoleum in Iran and thanks to it, Shiraz is also a religious city and a city of pilgrimage after Mashad and Qom. If you are not allowed to enter the main hall of the Shah Cheragh mausoleum, try Imamzadeh Ail ibn-e Hamze (located in Hafez St. near the KHOSHK River). This mausoleum that dates back to the 10th century, today houses the tomb of the nephew of the seventh Shi’ite imam. You are allowed to enter (there is a tourist office there) but the ladies must agree to cover themselves with a borrowed chador and take Hijab. Nasir al-Molk Mosque or the Pink Mosque is one of the most successful examples of 19th century Qajar constructions in Shiraz. The dominant pink color of the vase flower patterns and the vaults covered with geometric patterns are among the characteristics of this small Qajar mosque.

Shiraz is known for its beautiful gardens and “Bagh-e Eram” is one of the most visited ones of them (located northwest of the city). Its superb cypresses, botanical garden, rose garden (recommended to visit especially in spring) and being a meeting place for students, all this gives a national reputation to this garden and since 2011 it appears on the list of the world heritage of UNESCO due to its typical characteristics of Persian garden.

Garden lovers should also take a visit to and enjoy “Bagh-e Narenjestan” (the orange tree garden). In fact, this place is a beautiful Qajar house which belonged to a wealthy trading family, the Qavams, who ruled the city from the Zands. This garden palace, the official residence of the governor, was built between 1879-1886 to accommodate foreign ambassadors and merchants.

The tombs of Hafez and Saadi are considered by many Iranians to be the most famous monuments of Shiraz and people make a poetic pilgrimage there with the collections of each poet in their hands, enjoy reading Ghazals (a lyrical form) by Hafez or the two famous works by Saadi, Bustan (orchard)  and Golestan (the Garden of Roses). The atmosphere of the Hafez mausoleum is significant during the night. The current buildings are fitted out and restored during the first and second Pahlavi periods.

 

If you pass Vakil Bazaar, don’t forget the specialties of Shiraz:

The wool carpet and Gabbeh rugs produced by the Qashqa’is, the semi-nomadic tribe of the Fars region.Faludeh, a dessert prepared with rice starch filaments and lemon juice and a special pastry called Kolouché Masghati (a kind of cookie or biscuit).